A Food Crawl Through Iloilo, the Heart of the Philippines
By Cesar Cruz Jr.
Get ready for a flavor-packed adventure! Iloilo, the “Heart of the Philippines,” has been crowned a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, making a culinary journey here an absolute must. And what better way to dive in than with a food crawl specially curated by Ms. Lea Lara, director of the Iloilo City MICE Center, for our WOFEX contingent.
From the moment we arrived, our fellowship was filled with curiosity, excitement, and hunger — not just for food, but for the stories behind each dish. The streets themselves tell tales: Spanish colonial architecture and American-style landmarks, like Iloilo City Hall, stand side by side, setting a backdrop that is both historical and dynamic.
Kap Ising’s Pancit Molo – Humble Comfort, Timeless Flavor
Where: Multiple branches; main residence branch at Barangay South San Jose, Molo, Iloilo City
Our group was struck by the simplicity and authenticity of Pancit Molo. The clear, rich chicken broth which was simmered from fresh chicken bones and the delicate dumplings stuffed with a mixture of pork, chicken, and shrimps captured the essence of home-cooked comfort. We sampled the molo soup at City Hall, brought by Kap Ising himself. Puto, empanada, and lumpia are available at his restaurants to enjoy alongside the soup. It was endearing to see Kap Ising happily finishing his bowl of soup – yes, he still eats a bowl, or two, every single day!
Meeting Eliezer Villanueva, the low-profile yet highly successful former barangay captain, was humbling. He is very hands-on in the business, personally buying all raw ingredients and overseeing preparation, cooking, and serving. Over the years, the price has changed significantly: what once cost PhP10 for four dumpling balls is now PhP100 for five, reflecting both inflation and the quality of ingredients used. It was impressive to learn how the humble beginnings of door-to-door sales to banks and government offices grew into seven thriving branches, with frozen dumplings now available for home enjoyment.
Pat-Pat’s Kansi – A Distinct Ilonggo Signature
Where: 125 Seminario Road, Jaro, Iloilo City
Named after owner Christine Servando’s daughter, Patricia, Pat-Pat’s Kansi offers a soup that truly stands out in Iloilo. During our visit, we spoke with her niece, Sharmen Uytieppo, who shared that Christine would travel to Bacolod to enjoy kansi before eventually developing her own recipe. The restaurant began humbly in their home, with bamboo chairs and tables, and has grown into a local favorite while maintaining authenticity with just one Iloilo branch, open from breakfast onwards.
The soup itself is a unique cross between sinigang and bulalo — a rich, beef broth, soured with batuan and without the usual Tagalog bulalo vegetables. Diners can customize their experience with sawsawan made of fish sauce, soy sauce, and kalamansi, adding siling labuyo, if desired. Options include Kansi Lawas with bone and marrow, Kansi Unod for just beef, deboned versions, or even Kansi Flakes reminiscent of adobo. Touring the spotless kitchen, we appreciated the care that goes into every preparation, ensuring each bowl reflects both tradition and the family’s culinary ingenuity.
Iloilo Bibingka – Street Food With Soul
Where: Right behind Jaro Cathedral
Right behind the Jaro Cathedral, Mila Rosada has been selling bibingka for over 20 years. Watching her work openly and graciously was inspiring — every step was visible, from scooping the sticky rice and buko mixture into banana leaf-lined molds, made from the cut-off ends of evaporated milk cans, to putting them in the make-shift wood-fired oven. True to the common description of how this type of bibingka is cooked, the ovens are fired from the bottom and on top.
This version of bibingka is distinct from the cake-like versions found in Luzon — it is dense, hearty, and full of authentic Ilonggo flavor. They are also small, so are sold in brown bags of ten pieces for PhP 50. The aroma and taste transported our ensemble, reminding everyone why street food is so cherished: authenticity, simplicity, and flavor that lingers in memory. It is also good to know, that the cakes are sold all-year round and not just during Christmas season. Even better, we literally just chanced upon them cooking while traversing the road behind the church. It wasn’t even part of the crawl but a very welcome addition, indeed.
Biscocho Haus – Pasalubong Perfected
Where: 8 Lopez Jaena Street, Jaro, Iloilo City
When it comes to pasalubong (souvenir treats) from Iloilo, Biscocho Haus is a legend. Gery Guadarrama, a Mechanical Engineering graduate from the University of the Philippines, ensures that their products remain local and special, resisting the urge to go national in order to preserve their unique novelty. “Pasalubong has to stay local,” he says. With 25–30 SKUs and seasonal items like Mazapan de Pili, there’s always something new to discover.
“Since Iloilo was recognized as a Creative City of Gastronomy, more tourists have been coming to the province and buying pasalubong. It’s great for both business and promoting our local flavors,” shares Guadarrama.
While you can order online, the joy of picking up pasalubong for your loved ones in person is truly part of the Iloilo experience. Each bite reflects the care and tradition behind the brand — and you definitely cannot leave without trying their iconic butterscotch bars.
The Heart of Iloilo’s Gastronomy
Looking back, what made this crawl unforgettable wasn’t just the dishes, but the people and stories behind them — from first-generation owners to the new stewards of family legacies. Every bite carried pride, heritage, and love for Ilonggo cuisine, perfectly illustrating why UNESCO recognition is so meaningful.
The tour wasn’t all eating, as we also got to see some of the iconic areas of the city. We traveled through Calle Real to see the historic downtown area with its colonial buildings. We passed the La Paz Market, where the batchoy eateries are traditionally found. By the time this issue comes out, the market would have re-opened after a few months of renovation. Other sights we saw were the Jaro Cathedral (National Shrine of Our Lady of the Candles), Molo Church (St. Anne Parish), the Iloilo River Esplanade, the Molo Mansion, and the Iloilo Business Park.
It is a food crawl we recommend local and foreign tourists to experience, one we would happily do again. Our warmest thanks to everyone at the Iloilo MICE Center, specially Ms. Lea Lara, Ms. Dannah Nilay, and Ms. Gretchen Legara for the memorable Iloilo food experience.
Watch out for Part 2.
*This article originally appeared in the February 2026 issue of World Food, the trade magazine of World Food Expo (WOFEX).
