A Food Crawl Through Iloilo, the Heart of the Philippines
By Cesar Cruz Jr.
We continue on with our culinary tour of Iloilo City…
Agatona 1927 Museum Café – Dining Through Heritage
Where: Plaza Rizal Street, Jaro, Iloilo City
Step into a bygone era at Agatona 1927 Museum Café, located right across the plaza and Jaro Cathedral — a hint that the owners were among the “who’s who” of their time. The café is run by a group of 11 cousins led by Chef Carlo Jalandoni and Candy Jalandoni Garcia, who each have their own roles, balancing culinary expertise and heritage preservation.
While the menu offers casual dining, the setup exudes high-end sophistication, perfectly complementing the ancestral home’s old-world charm. We enjoyed heirloom recipes like pineapple basil drinks, classic dinuguan, chicken sandwiches, and frozen leche flan – all with familial stories behind them. Tasting these dishes felt like traveling back in time, connecting past and present, while guided tours add context to the house’s rare Papal Bull, which allows masses to be held on the premises — a testament to its storied past.
Netong’s Batchoy – Classic La Paz Noodle Soup
Where: Unit 10 & 11, Shops at Atria, Donato Pison Avenue, Brgy. San Rafael, Mandurriao, Iloilo City (with multiple branches)
No food crawl in Iloilo is complete without La Paz Batchoy, and Netong’s remains a true institution. The business was started in 1948 by Patrick Guillergan’s grandfather, Leonito “Netong,” who sold viands near the train station. He learned the trade from a Chinese man who ran a noodle shop and innovated his own version of the noodle soup by adding meat scraps from his family’s meat business — food designed for travelers passing through the station.
Guillergan has been helping out since he was in grade 4, learning the ins and outs of the family business. Today, he ensures that every bowl remains true to the original recipe, a dedication that sets their batchoy apart from others. Rich broth, springy miki noodles, savory meat bits, and crispy toppings all follow the same method and proportions from day one, giving diners a taste of history with every spoonful. Their homemade toasted garlic and chicharon also spell the different for their batchoy. Lara happily tells us that their Netong’s pop-ups in MICE events always have lines of people waiting for bowls of batchoy.
Madge Coffee Shop – Brewing Pride
Where: Shops at Atria, Donato Pison Avenue, Brgy. San Rafael, Mandurriao, Iloilo City
Madge Coffee Shop started in the 1940s at La Paz Market and is now managed by the fourth generation under owner Magdalena dela Cruz. Our group appreciated the strong local coffee culture here, with beans sourced from northern Iloilo and Guimaras, offering an authentic Ilonggo coffee experience.
Regulars have their own mugs, which also serve as wall decorations, adding character to the coffee shop and a sense of belongingness. A variety of breads and Calea cakes are sold at the counter to perfectly accompany the coffee. Even after lunch, the café was bustling, attracting government employees, friends catching up, and couples on dates. The experience reinforced how coffee culture is deeply woven into Iloilo’s social and culinary identity, showing that simple, well-crafted beverages can resonate across generations.
Panaderia de Molo – Heritage Baked Goods
Where: Avanceña Street, Molo, Iloilo City
Delight in the rich history of Panaderia de Molo, established in 1872, making it Iloilo’s oldest panaderia. Dr. Kristin Treñas, whose grand-aunts, the Sanson sisters, started the business, upholds the tradition of using original recipes with lard for that distinct flavor. While modern twists like garlic toast and barquiron have been introduced, the bakery proudly maintains its original varieties of biscuits that include kinihad, kinamonsil, biscocho de caña, biscocho principe, rosquetas, and broas.
Though they have transitioned from wood-fired ovens to gas for environmental reasons, the essence of their craft remains. Their galletas, hojaldres — which they are the only ones to make — and bañadas are iconic pasalubong. “For us, it’s not just about baking; it’s about keeping our family’s story alive and sharing a piece of Ilonggo heritage with everyone who comes through the door,” says Dr. Treñas. They choose to still be traditional, as she says, “Doing it otherwise, will make the products lose their soul.”
Dr. Treñas is also deeply involved in heritage preservation, working with the Department of Education in programs to create cultural awareness in young people, and playing a key role in projects of the Heritage Council, like the Carpenter Bridge refurbishment, truly embodying the Ilonggo pride she advocates for. She says, for their family, Panaderia de Molo is more than just a business, it is a responsibility they will uphold as stewards of Ilonggo food and culture.
Happy Endings Creamery – Innovative Local Flavors
Where: Molo Mansion Garden Grounds, Donato Pison Avenue, Molo, Iloilo City
Cool down with a scoop of innovation at Happy Endings Creamery, where Catherine and Tajen Sui craft unique local ice cream flavors. The name reflects their vision: to be part of someone’s “happy ending” in the day’s story, as highlighted by the signage in their store, “What’s your story?”
During the pandemic, the couple bought a secondhand churner and began experimenting, building on skills they honed while volunteering in Gawad Kalinga kitchens. Their creations showcase local ingredients and traditions: BayeBaye, Banana Turon (topped with banana chips), KBL (Kadyos, Buko, Langka), and Batuan. They also launched seasonal collections, including a successful Halloween line-up featuring imaginative flavors: Tikbalang — beer-infused ice cream with salted chocolate ganache; Manananggal — beetroot-spiced strawberry with coconut anise cream; Kapre — smoked Assam tea with pecan brittle; Panaming — ginger and turmeric for protection; and Duwende — truffle with honeycomb shards.
One challenge they face is managing the cold chain in the region to ensure efficient procurement and production. Sui shares, “We always keep in mind to balance creativity with the practical side of the business. Our goal is to make people happy and uplifted with every scoop.” She also shared a touching story of a customer who became teary-eyed tasting the BayeBaye flavor, as it brought back childhood memories. Each ice cream scoop is a celebration of local flavors, stories, and joy.
It was one full day of learning, savoring, and enjoying the many wonders of Iloilo. Actually, a day was not enough. We plan to be back to see more sights, taste more delicious Ilonggo food, and hear more stories on what makes this city a standout in gastronomy.
*This article originally appeared in the February 2026 issue of World Food, the trade magazine of World Food Expo (WOFEX).
